The boy and his bike- Part 3

So we get home, back to the bungalow. Steph is still crying and I am muttering about my tan- both in shock in hindsight. Luckily, apart from a few bruises and scrapes, I'm OK.

According to Markus (MAN from part 2), mechanics won't repair rental bikes. They have a mutual agreement with rental companies to artificially inflate rental bike repair prices. And they charge lots. No wonder the bike was cheap to rent. Fuckers!

So the next day, I set off, visiting each and every mechanic on the island. I park the bike around the corner or down the road, and take in the broken part. If they can't see the bike, they can't see the rental stickers.

After riding around all morning, asking in bad and broken Thai for a motorcycle part, I am beginning to get desperate. Most say: 'No have' or smile, shake their head and point down the road. They must know, travellers must do this all the time, prang their bike and try to get out of paying crazy repair bills. But I resolve to try just one more.....

A lady is out the front with her 2 small sons. I show her the part, and she phones her partner, the mechanic. He arrives and assesses the bike. Says he can get the part, but will have to order from the mainland. The part takes 4 days because of the weekend.

I arrive on Tuesday . The mechanic fits the part. I tip him and ride directly to the rental company. Pay the rental fee. Walk away feeling 10 foot tall and bulletproof. Believe me, I have never felt so happy to hold my passport.

And then the fat lady sings...... THE END :-)

The boy and the bike- Part 2

I get up. Dazed, with bark off. Bike laying on side. Canadians apologising. Ripped shorts. People looking: Are you OK? Am I OK? Steph crying. Sorry, she says, sorry. Bike broken- 2 footpegs.

MAN appears on bike. Knows mechanic. Follow, he says. Pick up bike. Follow MAN. Steph nervous. Still crying.

MAN talks to mechanic. Mechanic cannot help. Follow MAN further. Mechanic cannot help. MAN apologises. Suggests we get part. Offers use of tools. Gives directions. Disappears.

Steph still crying. Fog beginning to clear. Need to get home and shower, reassess, recuperate....

TO BE CONTINUED....

The boy and the bike- Part 1

Disclaimer: I retain full mental and physical faculties.

The best way to get around Koh Tao is to hire a motorbike, especially if you plan to stay for a while. And at $AU6 per day, it seems silly not to. So we did. We got a bike. No helmets though- they look at you strange and laugh when you ask. But they take your passport- collateral.

So off we go, exploring the roads, tracks and goat trails with our new found toy. And we go fast, more fun to go fast. Time to give myself a dose of white knuckles...... and for a while there I pulled it off, but chance is a fickle mistress.

Cruising up a hill, pick the wrong gear and it won't change up, so I give it shit. We stop half way up. The road is sandy, back brakes don't work, and the front wheel locks up as we begin to slide backwards. Steph bails, saving her ass but unbalancing the bike in the process. I push the bike down and slide backwards down the concrete road.....on my back......with no shirt....

TO BE CONTINUED.......

Koh Tao

The island looms on the horizon, a jewel of green against an aqua-blue carpet. Whispers of the legendary Koh Tao reached my ears a few years ago when a good friend of mine, Marieke, spent 3 months here. I can see why!

Koh Tao is little more than a pindrop in the ocean, 70kms off the mainland in the Gulf of Thailand. We have a small bungalow overlooking Chalok Baan Bay on the south of the island. The pace is so relaxed- no one is in a hurry to do anything. Reminds me of souwest WA- golden beaches and afternoon doctors.

The "Deep South"

Noosa on crack! A full spectrum of tourists: backpackers, honeymooners, retirees.... But no Thai tourists. Says something about the vibe of the place. Fast, loud and arrogantly western.

Ao Nang, on the coast 20kms from Krabi, could be a western resort town anywhere in the world. A bit sad really, like the friendly Thai-ness has been rubbed off to reveal an edgy side- touchy and irritated.

Luckily, the scenery is spectacular, and we head out to dive on one of the limestone monoliths. Among other things, we see a Leopard shark and a Tiger Tailed seahorse, endemic to Thailand, Malaysia, Vietnam and The Philippines ...amazing!

One ticket to Thailand, please

Sawasdee! Welcome to the land of smiles and cheap beer! After a local bus, a train, a mini van, plenty of white knuckles and 14 hours, we arrive in Krabi, completely buggered.

Political tension in southern Thailand- complete with automatic weapon touting soldiers- is a little disconcerting. Nearly every trainstation has sandbagged military installations. Scary!

Luckily, our 14 hour mission puts us out of the danger zone, and really close to the magical limestone islands around Ko Phi Phi.....looks like more diving on the cards!

Spice up your life

"You go down to the bottom of the sea, where the water isn't even blue anymore, where the sky is only a memory, and you float there, in the silence".

The Big Blue (1988)

The warm tropical waters of the South China Sea- a perfect environment for an Open Water Diving course. After 4 days and four fantastic dives, Steph and I are certified open water divers.

I really can't believe I have waited this long- it is like opening the door to another world. Thanks to Cindy and the Spice Divers crew for opening the door......

www.spicedivers.com.my